Gracie’s Guide to Pai, Thailand: A Hippie’s Haven

Pai, Thailand. A hippie’s haven. A backpacker’s paradise. A vegan’s bliss. Pai is a gorgeous, sleepy mountain town ~3 hours north of Chiang Mai. Okay, let’s get one thing straight. Pai is not authentic Thailand. Yes, it’s technically in Thailand. Yes, it’s absolutely beautiful up in the mountains. Yes, some Thai people live there. But as anyone who visits sees, it is built for backpackers, for foreigners. I was shocked when I arrived and all the signs were in English lol! Don’t get me wrong, I LOVED my weekend there. But it’s not Thai. My friend hit the nail on the head when she compared Pai to an episode of Black Mirror. It is like a utopia, a break from reality. There’s a running joke that people end up staying in Pai much longer than they originally planned. The easy lifestyle pulls you in. If you’re backpacking Southeast Asia, you have to visit Pai. It is a right of passage. One weekend is plenty of time to stay in Pai, but I’m warning you, you will definitely want to stay longer! Keep reading to have as an amazing time as my best friend Sydney and I did!

Travel Tips

You have two ways to get to Pai. 1) A 3 hour bus (minivan) from Chiang Mai. 2) You can drive there yourself on a motorbike. I would highly recommend #1 option unless you have lots of experience on a motorbike. The roads from Chiang Mai to Pai are STEEP and SCARY and not for the faint of heart. I’m serious! Just take the bus. It is soooo cheap, ~200 baht round trip. Book here for your ticket (I’d recommend the minivan as it is cheaper than the bus). They run these minivans constantly throughout the day.

As for transportation once you get there, you must rent a motorbike. You can’t go anywhere without a motorbike because there’s no Grabs or Bolts. If you’ve never ridden before, don’t worry! Pai is the perfect place to learn because the roads are wide open. I hadn’t ridden one either, and I got a free one hour lesson in addition to my bike rental from Vespai Rental. It cost 500 baht for two days of rental plus the lesson. Not bad for first timers! The owner was so nice too, highly recommend going here to rent! Bring your Passport because he will keep it until you bring your bikes back.

We stayed at the Pai Country Hut for ~300 baht / night. This place was so fun! We had our own lil bungalow. It is a good location too, walking distance from the walking street.

WARNING: Bring bug spray. The bugs in Pai are vicious.

Activity Tips

Most of these activities are FREE! Only cost is the petrol for your motorbike 🙂

The Pai Walking Street is a fun place full of stands, restaurants, bars, shops, etc. This is the busiest part of Pai, and where everyone goes at night.

Visiting the Pai Canyon was a pleasant surprise. We hiked the short (steep) way up, and our mouths dropped open at the top. This canyon is stunning, and I mean STUNNING. The lush green mountains in the background, the sandstone canyon laid out in the foreground. Walking through the tight passes of the canyon is like exploring a playground as a child, loads of fun and a bit thrilling. This is a MUST SEE.

Go to the Chinese Village (called the Santichon Village). From Pai, it is ~15 minute beautiful, scenic drive winding through the mountains. I learned a lot about Chinese settlement in northern Thailand, and how they brought their culture here. There are stands selling beautiful, intricate Chinese teacup and kettle sets, as well as traditional tea and medicine. There’s also games and beautiful views. Very cool experience! Make sure to keep driving around this area because it’s gorgeous.

Love Strawberry Pai is a kitschy, fun-as-hell strawberry picking theme park with incredible mountain views. Yes, this concept sounds insane. You see why this place is compared to Black Mirror? Haha. Anyway, it’s really fun to explore and take photos. It’s on the way to the Pai Canyon, and I think it’s worth a stop for a smoothie, good views, and strawberry themed photo-ops.

Ride around the mountains and explore on your own. Weaving through the wide open roads, with the mountains spread out before you, on all sides with a 360 degree view, is surreal. It’s so freaking beautiful. There are no accurate words to describe it. You feel like you’re in a video game, or a movie, or a simulation. It does not seem real. But it is real!

Food Tips

Coffee in Love is the most scenic coffeeshop I’ve ever been to and will ever go to. The photos speak for themselves. ~60 baht / drink

Ganita Cafe is a vegetarian Mediterranean restaurant a close walk from the walking street. I got a yummy falafel sandwich and kombucha. Peaceful atmosphere and nice Thai owners. ~200 baht

Banh Banh Pun Pai Sandwich on the walking street is a MUST. They specialize in Banh Mi Vietnamese sandwiches, and they are phenomenal. Like actually amazing. We tried this on the last day which is for the best because we would have gone back every day if we had tried it earlier. Only 80 baht!!

Two Huts Pai is a must for a coffee or drink. They have outdoor hammocks and garden swings to relax on and enjoy the spectacular views. My friend and I spent hours here talking and taking in the scenery. Various prices, but nothing crazy.

Om Garden Cafe is a great breakfast spot. They have western foods and quick service. The eggs and french toast were really good! ~200 baht for breakfast plus coffee.

Pai is an affordable town nestled in a stunning mountain range. It will forever hold a special place in my heart as where I learned how to ride a motorbike. Riding gives you the ultimate freedom, and riding through mountains as gorgeous as these ones is indescribable. Embrace your hippie side and go check this place out if you’re in Thailand. But be careful! Don’t get sucked in for too long …

xx Gracie

If you liked this article you should check out my others:

Gracie’s Guide to a Long Weekend in Phuket, Thailand

How I Moved to Thailand at 22

Three Months in Chiang Mai: Finally Feels like Home